Chanel’s train station, Dior’s Marrakech adventures, Prada in NYC, plus more!
Designers get very #extra during the in-between seasons. For Virginie Viard’s first collection for Chanel, the Grand Palais was transformed into a train station; Dior infiltrated Morocco; Prada came to NYC. See all of the best look from the season built for fabulous vacations.
Virginie Viard came out of the gate for her first collection with a bang. Or perhaps, it’s more apropos to say she pulled into the station? The Grand Palais was transformed into a chic train station, complete with Chanel-ready destinations listed like Antibes and Rome. The looks honor the aesthetic of Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, while putting Viard’s stamp subtly throughout. We’re still getting to know her, but this Chanel girl has something very cool and bit mysterious about her—those all-over logos, those big bows, the mini skirts. There was iconic black and white, but more fun with color, pink, green, blue, fuchsia, mauve and sky contrasted with deep bistre, brown, cobalt, and navy. We’re on board for all of it—literally.
Prada came to NYC for the first time and took on the classics through the lens of Miuccia Prada. Mens shirting is transformed into dresses and shorts. Plaid blazers are oversized, socks are ankle length, and there’s a tennis sweater worth swooning over. It’s a subdued glamour—think swing coats, pleated midi skirts, and insouciantly flung scarves, all in go-to shades of navy, pale blue,
“multichromatic” brights, tonal hues, easy whites. The brand calls it the push and pull of dichotomies, “rich and humble, “youth versus heritage”, “uptown versus downtown.” Prada girls will love it.
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For its Resort 2020 collection, the French fashion house traveled to one of its most stunning locations yet: Marrakech. The Moroccan city not only served as host to Dior’s latest runway; its artists and culture helped inspire and create the collection. The theme was “Common Ground,” which it sought to achieve through a series of collaborations with several African artists, offering a fresh point-of-view from the storied French fashion house. At a time when the fashion industry is increasingly being called out for cultural appropriation, it was a risky move—but Maria Grazia Chiuri aimed for appreciation, not appropriation.
The artistic director tapped Anne Grosfilley, an anthropologist specializing in African textiles and fashion, to consult on the entire collection. Grosfilley helped source fabrics and reinterpret signature Dior motifs with Uniwax, a local manufacturer from Ivory Coast. Several pieces were done in 100% African Wax—made from cottons grown, spun, and printed in Africa. Chiuri also enlisted Grace Wales Bonner (a British-Jamaican designer whose work explores a hybrid of European and African fashion) and Mickalene Thomas (a contemporary African-American artist) to reimagine Dior’s iconic New Look silhouette. -Lauren Fisher
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