Resort season has begun.
Historically, designers and big houses have been known to go big with their cruise collections, throwing giant extravaganzas in far-flung locations around the globe. Though some shows have moved on from entirely virtual setups, star-studded front rows remain a dream of the past. In the meantime, designers and their teams continue to innovate the show format—a testament to the power of creativity and ingenuity. Ahead, see all the looks that are having us count our lucky stars our airline status is extended for one more year. See the best of the resort 2022 season, beginning with Chanel.
Chanel Cruise showed to the sounds of French musical mainstays including Vanessa Paradis and Charlotte Casiraghi and newcomers like Angèle, inspired by none other than the French-est of the French, artist Jean Cocteau. This is Chanel, after all. The reference was quite obvious to creative director Virginie Viard. “Because Gabrielle Chanel was close to Cocteau, and I love the film Testament of Orpheus,” Viard explains. “In particular this magnificent scene: a man with a black horse’s head descends into the Carrières de Lumières, his silhouette cut out against the very white walls.” The show took place without the usual celeb contingent (though the likes of Margot Robbie and Ann Hsu sent love letters in their stead) at the Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence. It is a collection of absolutes done up in all black and white, which isn’t to say it’s entirely restrained.
“Because the simplicity, the precision and the poetry of Cocteau’s film made me want to create a very clean collection,” Viard continues. There was room to play in this rather strict palette, with opening looks embracing more tailored attire—long dresses, tweedy suits—before forging full speed into some classic rock-and-roll nostalgia. “I wanted something quite rock. Lots of fringes, in leather, beads and sequins, T-shirts bearing the face of the model Lola Nicon.” A crochet cape gives some decidedly Stevie Nicks vibes, while the overall mood lives somewhere between the free spirited ’60s and straight-up punk. Pointed silver Mary Janes, little lace-ups, and booties complete the ensembles that feel created more for the city than the Riviera.