Milan Fashion Week saw more socially distanced runway shows, and it served as a reminder of how striking beauty accents are under the catwalk lights. Fendi ushered in the week with a sleek updo that offered an above-neck counterpart to its baguette bag, followed by Prada, where 15 models received ’90s-inspired fringed cuts. There were also color statements in spades: At Versace, lips were painted a neon-bright fuchsia, while at Ferragamo, classic ’50s cat eyes got a red-hot punk makeover. Finally, a grand finale came courtesy of Valentino, where graphic gazes were enhanced by a spate of icy blue dye jobs. Here, the five biggest beauty moments of the week.
The New (Radically Reimagined) Romantic
In an interpretation of classic design and pop subculture, makeup artist Pat McGrath etched on an array of precise winged liner designs—pared with translucent gloss or deep bold lips—for Valentino. Furthering the beauty counterparts to Pierpaolo Piccioli’s radical romanticism was the array of directional hair looks conceptualized by hairstylist Guido Palau. The standouts? Icy blue dye jobs courtesy of colorist Davide of Italy’s Blance salon.
The Hitchcockian Cat Eye With a Twist
Inspired by the Hitchcockian film that opened Ferragamo’s show, makeup artist Fara Homidi presented a “twisted, more naughty version” of classic ’50s cat eyeliner with thick, sharp wings in subversive shades of white and crimson. To give the overall look a modern feel, she added an “ultra-shine plastic finish” to the lips with translucent gloss. “It brought a new punk feeling to the cat eye, a feeling of rebellion while still feeling fresh and strong,” said Homidi.
The ’90s DIY Approach
Isolated Heroes, a photography book of David Sims’s pictures of street-cast models for Raf Simons spring 2000 show, served as a reference point for Prada’s spring hair vision. Accordingly, Palau served up an array of “boyish” model haircuts that skewed ’90s with an intentional DIY quality. “With everything going on in the world, people want to be able to do things at home and at the same time are a little less precious about experimentation,” said Palau.
The Mermaid-Chic Beauty Equation
To make the models look all the more at home in Versace’s fantasy underwater dream space, hairstylist Paul Hanlon soaked lengths in gel, then intricately shellacked them around the hairline and down to the décolletage. Upping the glamour, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni painted on neon-bright lips that popped against the clothes, cast in retina-burning colors and sea motifs as an ode to Gianni Versace’s spring 1992 Trésor de la Mer collection.
The Old Hollywood Updo
Riffing on Fendi’s iconic baguette bag, hairstylist Sam McKnight introduced the “Fendi roll,” a polished, low-slung updo with rolled pin curls in the back, in a “myriad of shapes and sizes” to suit the diverse cast. The original inspiration was a photograph of ’30s actress Merle Oberon, the first biracial actress to be nominated for a best-actress Oscar.