Welcome to the best of next season.
Consider this your one-stop shop for ogling the best looks from each standout collection showing at New York Fashion Week Fall 2020. From mainstays like Oscar de la Renta, The Row, Proenza Schuoler, Carolina Herrera, and Tom Ford to buzzy newcomers like Christopher John Rogers, we’re your plum front-row seat to seeing what’s next in fashion.
Prabal Gurung
Black might always be the first thing one thinks of in connection with New York style, but there’s so much more than that. New York City women love fashion truly, madly, deeply and embrace madcap flights of fancy better than any other tribe around the globe. Prabal Gurung declared his Fall 2020 collection a love letter to the city and packed it with silhouettes and prints that capture eccentric glamour. Standouts? Light-as-air feathers that covered a jacket for movement bottling the energy of Manhattan, and luxuriously folded taffeta that built for a perfectly disheveled peplum. From suits to gowns, everything one needs for a New York moment is here.—Leah Melby Clinton
Rodarte
Rodarte would be forgiven for tacking a sign to the door that said, “Minimalists, go home.” Kate and Laura Mulleavy have never been afraid of dramatic maximalism, and for their return to New York Fashion Week, they turned the dial up to eleven. It was a fashion fantasyland with spangles, spiderwebs, garlands of blooms, and billowing trains. Even the most subdued pieces were hardly that, including retro-inspired suit jackets and dresses. Though not a collection one could call wearable, that’s hardly the point. Fashion like this is intended to make us dream.—Leah Melby Clinton
Coach
Beyond Debbie Harry and Blondie’s surprise performance, there was a lot to pay attention to on the Coach runway. Colors, fabrics, extreme layering, stripes-on-stripes: It was an intentional sensory overload. Creative Director Stuart Vevers envisioned a downtown art scene from the ’80s whilst working, and he succeeded in bringing the various members of that tribe to life. Striped separates would help an abstract painter camouflage errant paint, while crisp lapels and pleated trousers surely belong to the person with aspirations to become an art dealer. It wasn’t all imaginary characters either: The brand collaborated with Jean-Michel Basquiat’s estate on a series of limited-edition pieces.—Leah Melby Clinton
Vera Wang
Per the show notes for Vera Wang’s Fall collection, there was boudoir and body, but also a bit of bondage via leather harnesses and straps. Another B-word to add to the list? Bubblegum, as shown by the brights she mixed in amongst her standard noir. It was a study in scale too, as layered, tucked, and draped tulle floated behind models as they walked; thigh-high socks with platform sandals made legs appear endlessly long; oversized outwear was made to look even larger by wooly trims and hand-hiding sleeves; and tiered tulle gowns spared nothing when it came to volume.—Leah Melby Clinton
Gabriela Hearst
One gets the feeling that Gabriela Hearst pulled from all parts of her life when putting together Fall 2020. Fringe, tawny suede, and richly woven fabrics all belong on the Uruguayan ranch where Hearst grew up; it’s easy to imagine her spending childhood hours studying similar styles, absorbing their inherent glamour while waiting for the day she’d become a “grown-up.” The sleekness of her adulthood in New York City is represented by beautifully cut coats, chic dresses, and off-the-shoulder cashmere. Every designer approaches the idea of sustainability differently too, and Hearst’s take is to look to the past. Hand-painted designs turn leather coats and accessories into pieces that will be kept for generations, and much of the knitting was done by Manos Del Uruguay, a non-profit cooperative of female artisans. Style plus substance, truly.—Leah Melby Clinton
Proenza Schouler
Many of the looks at Proenza Schouler’s Fall 2020 show were a bit askew, whether it was a jacket falling off the shoulder or an asymmetrical bodycon, cut-out dress. Jack and Lazaro weren’t afraid of a little sex appeal this season, leaning into little frocks made for after-dark. Those glittering creations walked alongside cool suiting, and a multitude of scarf details—strewn over the shoulder or billowing behind a leather slip dress. All of it was topped off by giant bags, fitted over-the-knee boots, and white sandals—all the better to make an entrance in. —Kerry Pieri
The Row
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen showed their collection around sculptures by Beverly Pepper to mark their 10th anniversary in business. Those minimal, cool, vaguely-industrial sculptures served as the ideal backdrop to an elegant, refined collection. You see, investing in art for your home that you want to live with for decades aligns perfectly with looks that no woman would gladly part with. Investing in sweeping coats, easy trousers, cashmere sweaters, and three-piece suits is a luxury for sure, but a timeless one no doubt. —Kerry Pieri
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera’s fall 2020 collection debuted at the newly opened The Shed in Hudson Yards, a glass-walled bit of modernity in the middle of the city. Creative director Wes Gordon’s designs, however, contrasted nicely with so much glass and steel—these were soft, pretty things for ladies who aren’t in too big of a hurry to get anywhere. From sheer lace whites to bold, voluminous gowns in blues and all shades of yellow, from golden to lemon. A black column gown was a bit more austere, but nonetheless lovely. Flat lace-up brogues accompanied many of the looks for another bit of contrast. It was an assured collection that was a lesson in balances. —Kerry Pieri
Jonathan Simkhai
Simkhai was inspired by the photographer Julius Shulman for his fall offering—Shulman shoots architecture on the West Coast. It’s a bit of a love story to L.A., Simkhai’s home base after so many years in NYC. This translated to tailored pieces, like trench coats, jumpsuits, and suiting. These pieces gave way to softer fare, silk dresses in scarf prints with fringe inspired by Simkhai’s family heritage in Iran before the 1979 revolution. There was also a collection of knits, from dresses to sweater sets. All quite personal and very wearable. —Kerry Pieri
Zimmermann
Zimmermann’s show notes announced the brand’s dedication to helping Australia recover from recent wildfires. The brand is inherently Aussie, showcasing that laid-back seaside vibe so many Sydney natives share. The fall offering was a bit less boho beach girl and a bit more tailored, with bold, printed suiting. There were ruffles upon ruffles, and a poncho for those chilly Indian summer nights. —Kerry Pieri
Lela Rose
Lela Rose is known for dressing the modern Southern Belle, the metropolitan hostess-with-the-mostest, and the woman who isn’t afraid to be feminine and flirty—sans bad side. Her presentations, shows, and parties are known for being the industry’s best, where attendees never leave hungry, thirsty, and without a party favor or two. This season, a store decked out so well one could think it was Rose’s new flagship will host flower arranging and cake decorating classes along with cocktail parties and collection viewings. The down-to-Earth yet super-chic setting felt apropos for Rose’s latest array, which infused some cool to her brand’s codes—in the form of relaxed suiting, layering, and midi dresses worn over trousers. —Carrie Goldberg
Jason Wu Collection
Jason Wu knows his way around a pretty look for a special occasion, and his secret garden of frothy, feathered frocks won’t disappoint romantics looking for an uptown polish, or a downtown edge. In an in industrial space adorned with an overgrown Dutch Masters-inspired garden, Wu sent his legion of socialites, suits, and party girls down the runway with unique finishes like hand-drawn florals and quilting. Come the Fall/Winter gala circuit, lovers of all things ladylike and ultra-femme should add Wu to their wishlists. —Carrie Goldberg
Bevza
Clean, simple silhouettes rule the roost at Bevza, and the Ukrainian label’s installment for fall 2020 continued their common thread of delivering clothes fashion girls want to wear. Easy separates and modern riffs on closet staples were consistent themes on the mainly neutral-toned runway of ivory, black, navy, burgundy, and camel. The label may be best known for dressing the likes of Emrata, Sophie Turner (for her Vegas ceremony with Joe Jonas), and Bella Hadid, but the collection felt more down to earth than clickbait, and more easygoing than celebrity driven. While we’re likely to see more women on the street than famous ones donning the line come fall, there’s no doubt that celebs will be clamoring for some of the season’s best pieces—like the notched-neckline knitwear and fluid suiting. —Carrie Goldberg
Brock Collection
Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar’s favorite theme, dark romance, got a redux this season with an ample dose of tailoring. The label, known for its feminine dresses, corset tops, and floral prints brought their brand codes in full force, but punctuated the collection with fluid suiting and tailored outerwear for the street-style equestrienne. In Little Women terms, think Jo’s renegade irreverence paired with Amy’s fashion-forward polish. With a gothic-meets-countryside vibe that fit for fall, it’s easy to imagine fall 2020’s Brock Collection girl riding astride at rapid speed in her Victoriana-inspired gown through the hills of … Central Park or Malibu, to meet the girls for cocktails. —Carrie Goldberg
Tory Burch
There’s nothing like a cup of coffee and a visit to a gallery on a lazy Sunday morning in New York. And while a New York Fashion Week Sunday morning is anything but lazy, Tory Burch welcomed attendees to her show at Sotheby’s with a cup of piping hot Sant Ambroeus brew and an art-meets-fashion show. Sculptures by artist Francesca DiMattio, 11 of them to be exact, scattered the runway, serving as the backdrop to Burch’s latest array. The designer describes DiMattio’s work as pieces that “imbue the decorative with strength and power.” Expectedly, Burch’s collection did the same, softening the power of suiting with more fluid cuts, and smattering wear-to-work dresses with DiMattio’s ladylike prints. —Carrie Goldberg
Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell is going full-on Americana. The designer and a celeb in his own right chose a quintessential New York locale as the backdrop for his show, the American Museum of Natural History. There were Cheer stars front row and a supermoon outside, but no spectacle was needed—because the clothes were executed that well. The fabrications were rich, the cuts classic and unfussy, and the message clear: Maxwell is here to compete for top pecking order with New York’s big designers and not looking back. —Kerry Pieri
Christopher John Rogers
There hasn’t been a new, true evening designer of note out of New York in recent memory, and Christopher John Rogers is staking his place in the realm of taffeta and full skirts. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner is here for the drama, turning out a collection of boldly hued suits, glimmering column dresses, and truly voluminous gowns for ladies who want to make a statement on the black-tie circuit. From his head-turning collection to his own pirouette on the runway, we want to watch pretty much everything this designer has to offer. —Kerry Pieri
Ulla Johnson
The top fashion hashtags on Insta have the word boho in them. And Ulla Johnson is here to redefine what that means for today’s woman. Sure, sometimes she’s in a full leather suit, but she also loves a dreamy patchwork dress, a maxi gown with a nipped waist, ethereal lace skirts—and sometimes, a good jumpsuit. The designer is growing exponentially each season, debuting a line of opticals on today’s runway, and expanding an already-successful jewelry line made with a woman’s collective in Kenya. That kind of conscious design mixed with the look so many women are after—pretty, modern, and, yes, a little boho—is a recipe for longevity in a business that seems harder to crack each year. —Kerry Pieri
Tom Ford
The fall 2020 season didn’t actually kick off at NYFW. Instead, Tom Ford stayed close to home to showcase his latest in Los Angeles—complete with a star-studded front row that included Jon Hamm in a silver suit. But onto the runway, where full glamour was on display for Oscars weekend, with a little grit by way of patchwork jeans, sweatsuits, and logo tees thrown in for the Chateaux Marmont crowd. What really brought down the house, however, was Bella Hadid in a sheer sequined dress that looked to be tied onto her body with velvet—and just as easily removed. If there’s ever been a designer who understands the power of suggestion, it’s Mr. Ford. —Kerry Pieri
Camilla and Marc
Camilla Freeman-Topper has a way with tailoring and a pulse on creating clothing that’s definitely for adults, but very cool adults. The brand is also increasing its space in the accessories market with some enviable slide sandals, tall boots, and little bags. Fall 2020 saw the Aussie designer have a bit of a love affair with Palm Springs, resulting in some desert hues and airy separates. The heyday of the Cali getaway, the ’60s, and ’70s, were also apparent in some flowing cutout gowns and groovy minis. —Kerry Pieri
Source: HarpersBazaar.com
