Alberta Ferretti went for sculptural shapes in her Limited Edition collection, a far cry for the wispy concoctions she’s known for. In recent seasons, she has tried to break away from her familiar aesthetic of ethereal femininity, experimenting with a more substantial and modern take on design, expanding the daywear offering and addressing a younger audience. Here she continued her exploration on new style templates, working on more structured, 3-d volumes while keeping silhouettes fluid and simple. “I like simplicity, but not simplification,” she said.
What stood out in the collection was the color palette, unusually audacious for Ferretti, who favors paler and dustier hues. Instead she went bold, with bright shades of chartruese, fire red, turquoise, and fuchsia enhanced by the luscious textures of radzimirs and liquid silk satins. It gave impact to a voluminous, dramatic winged cape worn over slim fitting pants, or to a red-carpet-worthy, floor-sweeping number with a feminine bow front bustier.
The play of elongated, simple contours was continued in tiered chiffon dresses and evening jumpsuits with lace-embroidered intarsia and fan-pleated ruches. Sequined minidresses had a svelte allure. Yet Ferretti’s flair for romance cannot be easily dismissed. “We need to dream,” she said. “We need a bit of magic and eccentricity.” No arguing with that. Ferretti is ready to provide us with an escape. Just put on one of her delicately sumptuous numbers in aquamarine embroidered with a plethora of shells, corals, and starfishes, and deep-dive into your magical fantasy.