From epic sets to new designers.
Fashion shows are officially back, if Copenhagen Fashion Week has anything to say about it. Taking place this week, there were several full days of live shows packed back-to-back, with favorites like Ganni and Stine Goya each putting personal touches on their own presentations. Whether it meant coming back with a bang by hosting a show in an exotic location or making a strong statement and letting the clothing do all the talking, after multiple seasons of digital shows, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s spring 2022 in some ways felt like an act of celebration.
For one, there was more street style action than we’ve seen since the start of the pandemic, with a mix of influencers, editors, and buyers going all out. Neon suits, loafers with chunky socks, and statement pieces like Chopova Lowena skirts mirrored the excitement of the clothing on the runway. Elsewhere, secret, off-schedule shows and intimate presentations showcased some unexpected treasures from the minimalist-friendly city.
Copenhagen Fashion Week is also known to be one of the most sustainable fashion weeks in the world, and after seasons of staring at shows on our phones, it was nice to see brands making an effort through ethical materials, creating less waste and being more creative with upcycling or handmade details. At the end of the week, though, it seemed like everyone united for one common concept: dressing up again. Read on for some of the highlights of Copenhagen Fashion Week spring 2022.
The Secret Show That Won Fashion Week
This season, cult-favorite brand Stine Goya opted for a top secret, super intimate runway show that was off-schedule, a first for Copenhagen Fashion Week. Models walked the runway in shimmery dresses, checkered sweaters, and a bounty of prints, while the Danish poetry collective Blod, Måne, Søndag performed live on the runway.
“Our collection is an homage to the beauty of creative collaboration and creative communities,” Goya told us. “After seeing the heartbreak and devastation this pandemic has caused the creative industries, we want to dedicate our spring 2022 collection to emphasizing the importance of creative communities and the power of individuals coming together in creative collaboration and unity.”
Rotate’s Cool-Girl Club
Rotate staged a high-glamour show where models emerged from vintage sports cars, making it one of the most unique shows of the season. Creative directors Thora Valdimarsdottir and Jeanette Madsen took inspiration from ’90s style and Fran Fine of The Nanny. Holographic sequins shone across the room, while psychedelic prints in floor-length renditions and body-con options hit the mark in the spirit of dressing up again.
“The biggest goal of the line is to make women feel sexy, gorgeous, extravagant, and unique,” Madsen told us. “We want women to wear our clothes and have this unique feeling of self-confidence and of feeling chic. We really hope that women feel like dressing up even for the small things in life. We don’t have to wait for a party, let’s just celebrate all the beautiful things in life.”
The Emerging Designer to Watch
Emilie Helmstedt has become well known for her whimsical prints and is well loved by celebs like Bella Hadid. For the spring 2022 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week, she hosted a sea-themed show complete with papier-mâché fish and sunflower headpieces, along with quirky quilted coats and pastel printed swimwear.
“We had to stay home during COVID, and I always traveling before, and now I’m like, ‘Well, this is also nice,'” she told. “Why not just stay here with the smallest shrimps and the sandy beaches and the sunflowers? It’s just the nature. And it’s just about really just realizing how good everything is where you are.”
Saks Potts’s Architectural Set
Saks Potts held its spring 2022 show at the private residence of Danish architect and designer Arne Jacobsen, built in the 1930s. With its modernist shape and perfectly groomed tree, the designer duo highlighted the grown-up silhouettes of draped coats and structured jeans.
“We had a lot of time to think,” Barbara Potts told post-show. “We really thought about, like, what would be the perfect Saks Potts collection. What do we want to wear ourselves? We are still us, but I think you can see in the details and then the clothes that it’s maybe a little bit more grown-up in a way.”
The Knitwear Designer to Watch
A. Roege Hove was founded in 2019, but it already feels like the label has mastered the art of the experimental knit. Designer Amalie Røge Hove studied textile design at the Royal Danish Academy of fine arts, and then worked in knitwear at some of the top Danish brands, including Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan. There were cool cutouts, body-con silhouettes, and punches of bright color, such as lime green, hot pink; plus, transparent stripes with just the right amount of ’90s inspiration.
Ganni Took Things to New Heights
Ganni is always a highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week, and this season was no exception. The brand has become a champion of sustainability and staged its show at the CopenHill building, designed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels, which is a waste-to-energy plant that towers above the city.
The label showed a mixed collection of sequined dresses, ruffled tops, and plenty of denim. “We cycle everywhere in Copenhagen, so we made sure to test that you can cycle to work and back comfortably in our jeans,” cofounder Ditte Reffstrup told.
The New Name to Know for Little White Dresses
Sisters Julie and Marie Skall founded Skall Studio in 2014, and put a major focus on natural materials, calming neutrals, and effortless femininity. This season, the brand cemented itself as a go-to for a perennial summer favorite—the little white dress, in all shapes, cuts, and textures.
“I think we’re very much inspired by the south of Europe and also the American artist Cy Twombly,” Marie told us post-show. “He also traveled a lot inside of Europe and actually ended up living in Rome where he had a beautiful home.”
The Performance That Ended the Week
Upon entering Henrik Vibskov’s show in an off-the-beaten-track riding club, guests were greeted with a surreal doll-like person that appeared to be on extremely high stilts, wearing a dress with multiple arm holes. The show started as a typical fashion show would, until the model stood up to become even taller, arms emerging from all sides. At the other end of the runway, models shaped clay with tools while directions were shouted at them to pass down their work as if they were in an assembly line. All in all, it verged on performance art and was a breath of fresh air in a sea of more traditional shows.
“The inspiration for this collection was about being fragile, which we’ve all been in this period,” Vibskov told after the show. “We were looking for materials and products that are fragile, and we came up with porcelain—there’s a lot on the subject of porcelain culture-wise, so we decided to do a factory-like installation.”